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23 BOATS You Can Build 1950 Popular Mechanics by Editors of Popular Mechanics Magazine

By Editors of Popular Mechanics Magazine

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L. and seeUl'ely block the hull in position. Next, install the top or sheel' planks. Carefully fit the bollom edge of the planb and clamp in position on the hull. Transfer the sheer-line marks on the l'ibs to the sheer planks and cut them slightly oversize at the sheer lines to allow for planing later. When the sheer planking is in place, p lug the screw holes and calk the seams. Then sand the transom smooth, fill with a mahogany-colored wood filler and follow with two coats of marine vamish. The inside of the hull is painted with a mixture of white lead and linseed oil.

The temporary brace on the No. 4 frame is screwed to the en~ct­ ing frame as in Fig. 5 to keep it squared and centered. The other frames are held in place by toenailing at the sides of the strongback. Care should be taken to locate the nails where they can be removed easily after the sides and bottom are put on. With the frames in place, the boat stems, onc of which is detailed in Fig. 9, are temporarily screwed to the erecting frame as in Fig. 11. Both stems should be about 12 in.

For cockpit stringers 1 piece fir, spruce, % x 12 in. -for beams 1 piece fir, spruce, 1% x 51f.! in. -for beams 2 pieces exterior fir plywood, % x 48 in. -for side planking 2 pieces exterior fir plywood, % x 48 in. -for bottom planking piece exterior fir plywood, % x 48 x 50 in. -for centerboard trunk 1 piece exterior fir plywood, % x 48 in. -for transom, rudder and brackets 1 piece exterior fir plywood, V4 x 48 in. -for deck 1 piece exterior fir plywood, % x 48 in. -for deck 8 pieces cedar, spruce, fir, % x 3% in.

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